Life on Fram

On the first of December, we boarded the MV Fram and set off down the Beagle Channel. There’s a fair bit of shipping on this route going to Ushuia and the Chilean naval base at Puerto Williams, set against a background of atmospheric clouds and the end of the Andes.

beaglechannel

 

The ship is a good size, with seven decks and around 250 passengers; this makes it quite stable in rough seas (though we had good weather all through the trip), and with space (physical and social!) to spread out in.

framinfalklands

 

The largest group of the passengers were British (David Attenborough factor?), followed by the usual West European and North American suspects. There were also about 30 Chinese people on this trip (mostly Hong Kongers). For some reason this was the only sign on the ship which was in Chinese as well as English:

cupsandsaucer

 

Our cabin came with a porthole:

porthole

 

And TV with an airline-style entertainment system, which we usually used to keep tabs on our progress:

map

 

As well as the passengers, there were about 80 crew of various types. The expedition team, who also looked after us when we landed (mainly fending off fur seals), gave lectures on the sea days (seven days sailing between the various destinations), which mostly dealt with the wildlife and history of the places where we landed. They were all well attended, but the star performer was Steffen Biersack, who managed to keep everyone entertained on the subject of rocks.

We saw very little of the actual sailors, but we did get to visit the bridge to inspect the equipment and interrogate the captain; everyone’s main concern was “How do you spot the icebergs?” The last, multi-talented group, who did the cooking, cleaning, and drove the little boats which we used for landings, were almost all Filipino, and managed to keep smiling despite very long days. Vegetarian food was hit and miss (probably not a priority with Hurtigruten’s target market), but the range of puddings made up for that.

chefs

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Tierra del Fuego

Our hours between flight and boat before and after the voyage were spent being taken around the environs of Ushuaia. The second of these trips involved spending three hours in a bus with misted-up windows, peering out at a spectrum of precipitation from rain to snow, and that’s as much fun as it got. Better was the first, to the Tierra del Fuego national park.

We stopped at various lakes and channels, most looking over into Chile:

islandsApart from a glimpse of a beaver, the most exciting animal on view was the South American Grey Fox, which it turns out is not actually a fox. These spend most of their time these days waiting patiently beside the campsites for scraps:

southamericangreyfoxBirds included variations on some more familar species. Black-necked Swan:

blackneckedswan

Austral Thrush: australthrush

Rufous-collared Sparrow (not a true sparrow): rufouscollaredsparrow

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Buenos Aires

We started and finished our trip in Buenos Aires, which was a fine repository of amusing signs. Starting with the most puerile:

pizzabum

malvinas

whiskeria

dontfeedThis last was in a pleasant surprise: a nature reserve right next to the city centre, but which was inhabited by a range of (to our eyes) pleasantly exotic wildlife. A southern crested caracara:

southerncrestedcaracara

And what seems to be a chalk-browed mockingbird: chalkbrowedmockingbirdThe most interesting area of the city itself ran from the centre to the San Telmo district, where there where attractively dilapidated buildings:

windmill telmotrees telmocatTouristy sites included El Ateneo, a theatre which has been converted into a bookshop (complete with cafe on stage and reading rooms in the boxes):

elateneo

There were some intriguing exhibits in the Museum of Latin-American Art: bench

And the most famous spot is probably the Recoleta Cemetery. There were still some surprising names:

oleary

Surprising architecture: pyramid

And surprising residents — this one a boxer: boxer

 

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Sexy Austrian Birds

The area around Neusiedl turned out to be a good spot for birds, especially raptors. Most were a bit far off for pictures, but a few were more cooperative.

Best picture was of this swallow, which I haven’t identified any more specifically: short tail, red throat and possibly brownish upper side…. ?

swallow

Prettiest bird, although not shown to its best advantage here, the European Bee-eater:

IMG_1874

Biggest: white storks! There were several of these, finding goodies in the field:

storks

On to the raptors, I think this little beauty is a Eurasian hobby:

eurasian hobby

And most exciting was this, possibly Eurasian buzzard, which drifted along in front of me and grabbed something just when my camera decided not to focus properly:

buzzard?

buzzard?buzzard?

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Neighbours

Over the last few months, we’ve been watching a group of raptors, possibly kestrels, living among our local tower blocks. Some seem to have left on their migration, but two remain. One with lunch:

withmouse

Looks like a juvenile:

babyThe local magpies are not pleased:

one

one

 

two

two

 

three

three

 

four

four

and eventually five magpies mobbed this one.

In the local hills, possibly a buzzard:

 

buzzard

and a splendid little chap, which seems to be the rather rare Rosalia longicorn :

blueantennae

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Reading List

This year, I vaguely thought that it would be nice to read a book a week. Fortunately I spend a lot of time on the trams of Bratislava, which have become my reading room, and (including Audible books) I managed 36 to the end of June:


11 which I would class as ‘general literature’:

I Was Jack Mortimer — Alexander Lernet-Holenia
Charmed Life — Diana Wynne Jones
The Rehearsal — Eleanor Catton
Giving up the Ghost — Hilary Mantel
Breakfast of Champions — Kurt Vonnegut
Waiting for Sunrise — William Boyd
Espedair Street — Iain Banks
Umbrella — Will Self
The Swimming Pool Library — Alan Hollinghurst
The Crow Road — Iain Banks
All Over Creation — Ruth Ozeki

Of these, “Umbrella” stood out for me as one which I would like to read again. This was one of the audio books, and its seamless shifts between different time periods worked very well, thought somewhat disorientatingly, in the format. The difficulty of pausing and moving back encourages you to take each section as it comes and reinterpret it later, rather than stopping to figure everything out.


6 science fiction:

Blue Remembered Earth — Alastair Reynolds
Excession — Iain M. Banks
Inversions — Iain M. Banks
Look to Windward — Iain M. Banks
Against a Dark Background — Iain M. Banks
Light — M. John Harrison

I’ve been reading through the Culture books in (publication) order, and am increasingly enjoying them: there’s more humour than in the earlier books to balance the grotesqueries. M. John Harrison is my SF discovery of the year: bonkers, disturbing, but moving, and any space opera which includes the Circus of Pathet Lao has to be special.


3 general non-fiction:

Forgotten Footprints — John Harrison
Charles Dickens — Claire Tomalin
Help! — Oliver Burkeman

‘Forgotten Footprints’ I read because I was looking for M. John Harrison, and found a book which I’d bought earlier but not read about Antarctic exploration. The writing style is a bit grating (the author is very pleased with John Harrison), but it’s good background for the holiday.

Help! was the surprise discovery, from which I took more notes than for probably all the other books together:

“in Britain, people are three times richer than they were in 1950, but barely any happier”.

“there’s a slight negative correlation between a happy outlook on life and longevity”.

“People underestimate how much they will allow the threat of embarrassment to govern their future choices”.

“the healthiest ration of happy to sad feelings is 2.9:1”.

“if it’s familiar, it hasn’t eaten you yet”.

“in terms of your subjective experience of how time passes … if you’re 40 … your life is 71 per cent over”.

“Paraplegics and lottery winners, a year after become paraplegic or winning the lottery, report broadly similar happiness levels to those they felt prior to their life-changing experience”.

and quoting Schopenhauer:

“there are people who are not sensitive to noise; but they are just the very people who are not sensitive to argument, or thought, or poetry, or art… The reason of it is that the tissue of their brains is of a very rough and coarse quality”.


1 work book:

Big Questions in ELT — Scott Thornbury

Top thought for understanding students: “In order to be a wit in a foreign language you have to go through the stage of being a half-wit”.


 

The largest group, 15, consists of books which I’ve done for Distributed Proofreaders:

Three Years in Western China — Alexander Hosie
Kinship and Social Organisation — W. H. R. Rivers
The Exiles of Faloo — Barry Pain
Rise of the Russian Empire — Hector H. Munro
The Evolution of Culture and Other Essays — Augustus Henry Lane-Fox Pitt-Rivers
Plays — Thomas Dekker
Footprints of Former Men in Far Cornwall — Robert Hawker
Mission to Siam, and Hué — George Finlayson
Mothwise — Knut Hamsun
Bohemia under Hapsburg Misrule — Thomas Capek
Louis Spohr’s Autobiography — Louis Spohr
Garden Cities of To-Morrow — Ebenezer Howard
Twos and Threes — G. B. Stern
Conquest — Marie Stopes
Radiant Motherhood — Marie Stopes

Part of the fun of DPing is that I read books which are not great lost classics, but which show sides of the past which one would otherwise pay little attention to; the Victorian travel books in particular fall into this category. “Conquest” is a stunningly bad play, but it’s good to know what Marie Stopes wrote for fun. “Twos and Threes” is really rather good, however.

 

 

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Summer

Today I went on an international journey, walking over the Morava river bridge to Austria. The Slovak side of the border has a playground with outdoor exercise equipment, while the Austrians have this:

hareand this:

flyingstorkAccording to Wikipedia (which may for once be wildly inaccurate), there are 10-20 pairs of red kites in Slovakia, and a splendidly precise “0-2” Austrian pairs; this looks to me like  half of one of those:

kiteThe Austrian side also has views back in to Slovakia. Devin castle:

devinBack in the Carpathians, I wasn’t sure whether this was a slow worm or a snake, so I took great care of both of us when moving him from the path:

slowworm

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Spring

Bratislava is well into its springtime, which in this case at least means wild mood swings from the weather gods. Recently it’s gone a bit wet and wintry, but still with a few sunny days.

The city itself is doing some spring cleaning, dismantling the old bridge:

bridge

Various animal life is taking in energy while it can:

goldbeetle    catersunsquaresmall

Well-bred humans and careful drivers of all kinds are welcome:

gentlemanufo

Of course, it’s the quiet ones you need to watch out for:

scarytree

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Back in Brat

New year, new home: we’re back in Bratislava for the next while. Our flat has a sofa big enough for the four of us, and comfy enough:

sofacatWe’re in Dúbravka, in the northwest of the city, and near the outskirts. There are hills on both sides, full of paths which in the civilised Slovak fashion are neatly indicated with signposts and way-markers:

signpostwoodswithpathmarkerTemperatures are hovering around 0 at the moment, so the hills have just a dusting of snow.

woodpanoramasnowlandOn the other side of the hills towards the Danube is Devin castle (Austria in the background):

devinBratislava castle sits in the middle of the town:

bratislava_panoramaThe tram goes from our street down the hill, through a tunnel underneath the castle, and stops a few hundred metres from the school. That’s nice!

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Urban(ish) Wildlife

Red predators of the day!

The Headington kite, or one of them:

Headington Kite

Headington Kite 2

And one of three foxes who live at the Horniman Museum in Forest Hill:

Horniman Fox

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrclgmaN_jI

 

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